South America 2006

I'll be posting updates on this blog while I'm in South America. Check in often to see what I'm up to!

Monday, January 30, 2006

Life in the Jungle

I don`t even know where to begin since there is so much to write about. But basically the general idea is something along the lines of ¨Holy Shit! I live in the jungle!¨

I arrived in Tena 1 week ago Sunday, and since then I have seen and done so much. The trip to Tena was faster than I expected, only 5 hours from Riobamba. To my surprise, my bus took the direct road from Riobamba to Baños, which was closed for a while due to mudslides caused by the volcanic eruption of Tungurahua. The road was still in bad shape, which meant for some scary moments, especially when the bus crossed bridges that were literally just two boards placed next to eachother. The rest of the ride from Baños was less exciting, and I got to Tena without any difficulties.

Since last Monday, I have been working as a volunteer for Amarongachi Tours. As I might have mentioned, I took a 3 day tour with this company when I was here 3 years ago, and I have been in contact with the head of the company since last May or June. As a volunteer, my job is to help translate tours for tourists who don`t speak Spanish and do speak at least some English. I live at the Shangri-La Cabins, which are about 10 km south of Tena. The pictures on the Amarongachi Tours webpage do not do the place justice...in real life it is much more beautiful. People generally go on tours that last from 1 to 3 days, so in the past week I already have met and worked with several people. Activities here are tiring but really really fun.

On an average day here, tourists do 2 activities. At Shangri-La there are several different short hikes through primary rainforest. One of them goes through some canyons where there are tons of bats. Apparantly the Discovery Channel was filming here sometime recently and the program will be airing in February....I think something about rabies and bats in Ecuador. Apparantly there isn`t too much rabies. Anyway, other activities include walking to a local Quichoa village (to try chicha de yuca, among other things), tubing down the river, swimming in the river, and visiting zoos and other local attractions by pickup truck and/or canoe. So far I`ve already gone to two different zoos which are really more like animal rescue centers where they try to reintroduce animals into their natural habitats.

At the other cabins (Amarongachi) where I have been twice this week (and I will be going again tomorrow), there are shorter walks to learn about medicinal plants, but there are also longer walks to some waterfalls (the trip involves climbing up them and standing under them and all that fun stuff) and to a lagoon which is great for swimming and watersliding. There`s also tubing down the river there....the Amarongachi Cabins are on the Jatunyacu (Rio Grande or Big River in Quichoa) while the Shangri-La cabins are on a cliff overlooking the Anzu River. These two rivers join together to form the Napo River just west of the small town of Puerto Napo (which is just south of Tena). The Napo is one of the biggest tributaries of the Amazon. Since arriving, I have spent short amounts of time in Ahuano, Misahualli, Archidona, Tena and Puerto Napo. Now you can consult your atlas...

The first 3 days I was here I wasn`t translating, so I wasn`t doing much in the way of work. I went on a tour with 2 Germans, and Ecuadoran guide (who is now here again with some other German tourists, a Spanish teacher from Quito, and his student, Rachel Lindsay. She went to Wesleyan and not surprisingly we have several friends in common (you know who you are). Also, she is now living in Hadley, MA, so hopefully I`ll see her when I get back to the USA. My first real translating job was on Thursday, but it was only translating during the morning for 2 Australians and 1 British guy at a zoo near Misahualli. My first long-term group arrived on Friday, a group of 5 adults (45+ years old and all family - three siblings and two parejas) from Sweden and Finland. They were very nice and seemed to have a great trip. They just left today, which is why I am Tena (taking the afternoon off). Translating is sometimes hard work, and also helping out at Shangri-La isn`t always easy. I am quickly learning how things work, where I can find things, and am taking on all sorts of roles when I have spare time or when guests ask me for things. The other day at the lagoon I had to rescue two of the Swedes who started to panic in the strong current...so apparantly I`m a lifeguard! Also, I`ve been serving lots of beer and other random beverages, so apparantly I`m a bartender too! All of this will look quite good on my resume :)

The people at both Shangri La and Amarongachi are really nice and also funny and somewhat crazy. I think things will be very interesting as I get to know people more. I am already starting to teach some English which is cool, and the guides are also teaching me Quichoa....later I am going to type up a vocabulary list I created the other day. The people who run the hostel, restaurant and travel agency here in Tena are also nice...since I am a volunteer I get to eat for free at the restaurant, which makes very good juices (Maracuya, mora, piña, melón, etc.). I`ll be heading there when I`m done with internet.

There have been lots of interesting adventures already, but I`ll describe this morning which will probably give you an idea of what things are like on a daily basis:

I woke up at 7:00 AM, and then ate breakfast with the Scandinavians and 7:45 AM. At 8:15 we headed off to the Quichoa community in the pouring rain. Roberto, the guide who was with this group (each new group that arrives gets a different guide, there are 5 in all at Shangri-La) led us down the 341 stairs to the river...since there were no plants to protect us we got soaked. Next we had to cross the river in the wooden canoe. The current was very strong because of the rain, and all 7 of us went in the canoe together. I was a bit worried about this since I have been known to tip canoes occasionally. As we pushed off from the shore, Roberto noticed a conga ant in the canoe, crawling toward one of the tourist´s hand. This kind of ant is very large and a bite can make a person sick (fever, vomiting, etc) for up to 2 days! Mara, one of the tourists, flicked the ant away from her husband Rolf, and we thought that the ant was gone. Crossing the river was a bit scary, especially since we weren`t wearing life jackets and I knew that one of the tourists was not too good a swimmer (which is why I had to rescue him from the lagoon on Friday). We ended up making it across just fine, and then tied the canoe up and started the hike through the rainforest. Just as we started to explain something about a tree, I noticed the conga ant was on top of Mara`s head! I signaled to Roberto, who flicked it a bit more so it landed on her glasses...then Roberto grabbed her glasses and shook off the ant. It wasn`t until this point that Roberto told the group how dangerous the conga ants are.....anyway, I was glad that no one got bit, although obviously it`s much better than drowning or getting bitten by a poisonous snake. Things worked out well for the ant too...it got a free ride across the river!

The walk to the Quichoa village was very wet but not bad at all...this was my second time this week in the village, and I`m starting to like the chicha de yuca a bit more (to make it, they use purified water that we bring and now don`t use the traditional method of chewing the yuca to start the fermentation process). The trip back to the river brought us through fields of yuca, maize and plantains as well as some forest. There are some beautiful lillies along the trail which smell wonderful as well.

By the time we got back to Shangri-La for lunch, the sun was out, so the climb back up the 341 steps was hot...back in Shangri-La, I showered quickly in my cold shower and then ate lunch with the tourists. Then they packed up and I reminded them to check for all their belongings. Shangri-La is a lot like summer camp for adults, so my camp counselor experience is serving me well. After this, we left for Tena (me in the back of the pickup truck, like usual). I`m spending the afternoon here and will head back tonight after dinner....weather here has been rainy a lot, but sunny sometimes too...it can change pretty quickly from one to the other. At night it gets down in the upper 60´s and the hottest it ever gets is about 80 degrees. So basically weather is perfect (but a bit wet)

Anyway, this ended up being quite long. But things are good, I am getting tanner and stronger and more knowledgable every day! My swimming chart is going to be much longer by the time I end my time here...Hopefully I`ll have another chance to write sometime soon....maybe even post some pictures!

Here is a link to the tour company web page: www.amarongachi.com

Check out the pictures there to get more of an idea of where I am and what I`m doing

Saturday, January 21, 2006

Cuarenta, Parades and Volcanoes

Today is my last full day in Riobamba, since I will be leaving tomorrow (Sunday) for Tena! There are supposed to be transportation strikes starting on Monday, which means that some key roads will be blocked, so I am leaving a day earlier than planned. I have emailed my soon-to-be boss in Tena and he wrote back to tell me that I`ll most likely be heading into the jungle on Monday morning!

Spending time in Riobamba has been very nice. On Thursday night I went with my host sister to a Cuban film at the Casa de Cultura...it was old and hard to understand and a bit strange. I found out that they had played Machuca (a chilean film) the night before which would have been much better. Yesterday I did some errands, drew some maps and then last night I played some very good cuarenta games with my host parents and Veronica. Veronica and I won although I have a feeling there will soon be a rematch.

Today I went with my host family to the huge Saturday market which was very cool....my host mother and host grandmother bought lots of fruit. I took some nice videos and pictures throughout the morning, including some lovely pictures of roasted pigs and cut-up chickens.

This afternoon I went with the family to yet another market, then to Helados de Paila for some ice cream (my third time in 4 days). After this we watched a cool parade that included dance groups from various parts of Ecuador, including Tena and La Costa. Now it`s almost sunset and the sky is the clearest it`s been since I arrived....off in the distance Tungurahua is emitting lots of steam and ashes which is pretty cool. Now it`s time to go back to the house and pack for the jungle....my next post will probably be from the Oriente!

Thursday, January 19, 2006

Photos from Riobamba







Here are some photos from Riobamba. First is a picture of ice cream from Helados de Paila, next is a view from the roof of my host family´s house, and finally a group picture from Wednesday night: my host parents, Veronica, Paco, Hailey and me.

Brewer?!? I barely even know ´er!

Saludos desde Riobamba! Things in Ecuador are still going very well and very smoothly so far...I slept well in Quito and woke up earliesh, made some calls, ate breakfast (french toast) then headed to the bus station. As soon as I got out of my taxi, I was led to a bus headed for Ambato, which left shortly afterwards. The bus driver was very speedy (maybe a bit too speedy) but we got to Ambato in just over 2 hours. Hailey and I planned to meet up near the bus station, and I had to wander around a bit before I found her. After I found her, we went to a small restaurant so I could have some soup (chicken soup with chicken, potato, rice/quinoa and a nice broth with cilantro and scallions). Then we took a bus to Riobamba. The bus rides were all pretty uneventful, but it was nice having company on the last part of the trip. We got to Riobamba at 3 PM and headed to my host family`s house. It was very nice to see them again, we sat and chatted for a while with my host mother, then Hailey and I headed out to explore the city a bit.

Hailey and I decided to stay in a hotel for the night since there wasn`t an extra bed in my host family´s house, so we went and chose a hotel called El Tren Dorado. Got a nice room for 8 dollars each...not super cheap but very nice and comfortable. After checking in, we walked around Riobamba...weather was chilly and a bit rainy. We first went to Helados de Paila, a very good ice cream place that has lots of tropical flavors of ice cream. I had guayaba and coco and Hailey had guayaba and mora. We walked around more, window shopping, chatting....on the way back toward my host family´s house we passed by La Condamine, the big market where my host family does their shopping and where I have spent lots of time on previous trips. I was very surprised to find that the market has changed drastcially. Instead of a plain roof covering a disorganized, dirty market, there is now a 2 story building divided into different sections (vegetables, fruit, chicken, meat, clothes, etc). It actually looks very nice and is probably a lot more pleasant a place for everyone involved, but I do think it may have lost a bit of its character. Oh well. I`ll probably take some pictures in the next few days which I`ll try to post here eventually.



At sunset, Hailey and I returned to my host family´s house and went up to the roof with Paco (my host brother) to see the nice view of the mountains. Then we came downstairs, had dinner with my family and hung around chatting until about 10 PM. My host mother baked a chocolate cake which was very good. Eventually Hailey and I took a taxi back to the hotel, both slept well and enjoyed nice hot showers this morning.

Hailey is leaving to head back to Quito today, so our time together was short but fun. Paco left on a school trip to the Oriente today, he`ll be back on Saturday. On Monday, I´ll be leaving for the Oriente too (to Tena) where I am going to be working as a volunteer for a jungle-tour company that is based there. Sounds like it is gonna be an awesome experience, and I`ll be there at least until the end of February working as an interpreter and teaching English. Nothing is for sure yet, since there are some details I still don`t know, but it looks very very likely that things will work out great.....so starting on Monday I`ll be living in the jungle! I`m excited already for the warm weather, since Riobamba is a bit frio. There will definitely be more updates about this soon....

Tuesday, January 17, 2006

Quito y mi viaje a Ecuador

Here I am in Quito, Ecuador!! It´s nice to be back, everything seems very familiar which is kind of nice. Feels like I haven´t been gone too long (it´s been 3 years). Packing and saying goodbyes was a bit stressful, and I ended up bringing a LOT of stuff with me, but I won´t be bringing it all with me everywhere I go. My flights were pretty easy and uneventful. And compared to India, so short! Getting to Ecuador is a piece of cake. I spent 3 lovely hours in Miami airport, where I ran into Scott McNiven (who I somehow recognized). He was on his way to Guatemala. Small world. Flight from Miami to Quito was less than 4 hours, and toward the end they randomly started playing an episode of the Amazing Race that took place in Jodhpur, India (see my other blog). So that was funny to see. I recognized it by the special style of rickshaws. Entering Ecuador was fine, customs were a breeze, bags arrived, pre-paid taxi to my hostel cost 5 dollars and got me there in 10 minutes....Hostal Crossroads was out of shared bathroom rooms (which I had reserved) so they gave me one with a private bath for no extra charge. Sweet.

Tomorrow morning I´m heading to Riobamba, but on the way I´m meeting up with Hailey B. (my friend from Tufts) who is coming to Riobamba with me for the day! She´s in Ambato currently. I´m psyched! Right now I´m at an internet cafe (papaya net, for those who´ve been here) in the heart of the touristy-nightlife area of Quito. No disco for me though....I´m goin to bed. So far, so good. Buenas noches.

Saturday, January 14, 2006

Still in the 'herst


I'm still in Amherst. I am using this blog entry to experiment with posting pictures. I am going to post one now. This picture is from India.

I'm leaving for Ecuador in 3 days! Sweeet

Monday, January 09, 2006

Countdown to Departure

It's Monday now, and I just created this new blog to use while I am in South America. Check back here for updates, which I will hopefully post regularly. My plan is to keep this blog instead of sending out lots of mass emails....that way people can read about what I'm up to anytime they want. Hopefully I'll be able to keep in touch with individuals using regular email, so email me! I'll be using my gmail account, which is my full name (first and last put together with no spaces) at gmail. If you know my name then you'll know how to reach me.

It's crazy that I'm leaving in 8 days!